Exit Magazine, Thingvellir
20 May 2008
The first thing to note is Icelandair is definitely a no frills airline. Upon boarding I'm exposed to the mythology of Icelandic women as I catch my first glimpse of beautiful Nordic girls - glassy eyes, blonde hair, and speaking a language not dissimilar in its sound to elfish - not that I really have any idea what 'elfish' sounds like. Regardless of Icelandair's distinct lack of anything approaching luxury, Iceland's international airport, Keflavik, is a super modern, well-designed and very user-friendly space, small in size but big on style. Keflavik airport is also one of the only places in the world where you can buy a 'supermarket' selection of duty free products on arrival. Knowing that Reykjavik is renowned for being one of the most expensive cities in the world, it's advisable to stock up on liquor, chocolate and Haribo gummi bears if you are so inclined.
As we descend into Iceland across a vast moonscape I sincerely felt like I'd been transported into space, landing on the moon itself. Its sounds cliche but when the vast open expanse of lava rock is covered in a thick layer of fresh snow it really is quite a surreal welcome. I stepped out into the icy air; it was minus 5. By the time I had made my way into the snowy car park to collect my 4x4 hire car from Hertz I'd already slipped twice in my trainers, so appropriate footwear is advisable. Regardless of your vintage sneakers' hip factor, you won't be looking that cool anymore when you're flat out on your arse and covered in the white stuff. The car itself was an interesting initial experience. Covered in snow and frozen solid the defrosting task was clearly going to take some time - actually it took almost thirty minutes before I could even begin to think about driving onto the skid pan of Icelandic roads. With few hours of daylight at this time of year and limited sunshine to guide the way, driving was definitely a job for the hardy.
The most famous daytrip in Iceland is the Golden Circle, a collection of natural wonders and historical sites located along the southern part of the island. I was eager to experience this and with only five hours of daylight I knew it meant I was going to have a fully charged day. Whilst stocking up on some tasty food for breakfast in Hotel Nordica's restaurant Vox, I got chatting to a local - Ross. Icelanders have apparently had a bit of bad press where social skills are concerned; however everyone I had come across so far was very welcoming, helpful and chatty. The descriptions Ross gave me of the wonders I was to see today only added to my excitement.
There are several variations of the tour, but most versions give you a chance to visit Thingvellir National Park, the geysers of Geysir the Gullfoss Waterfall, and Kerith volcano crater. I knew today was going to be seriously cold, so I layered up and got in the 4x4 to start the adventure. We left Reykjavik at 9am under the cover of darkness and arrived at Thingvellir Park about an hour later. It is quite possibly one of the most amazing wilderness landscapes I have ever seen. The sun seemed to spend the whole day rising then setting creating a mythical red and fiery haze. At this point on the edge of Thingvellir It perpetually sat just above the surface of the lake, hiding behind a thin sheet of dusty cloud. The reflection of the sun and the stillness of the surroundings were magical. I can see why Thingvellir is one of the most beautiful places in Iceland, but it is also central to the nation's history. One of the few spots in the world where the Mid-Atlantic Ridge comes above water, Thingvellir is an enormous geologic rift between the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates. This rift had technically created the spectacular view I had just witnessed: the sun rising over Iceland's biggest lake and the dramatic cliffs behind. Thingvellir is also home to the first parliament in the world. Icelandic Vikings began meeting here annually in the 10th century, gathering around a giant rock formation to create new laws and amend previous ones. To this day, it still remains a gathering spot where people across Iceland congregate for important national gatherings.
Next on the trail of the Golden Circle is Geysir. As you approach, the sky greets you with huge steam clouds rolling above and past you. Bracing the icy terrain, I left the comfort of the car and made my way to the Strokkur, which is the name of one of the biggest Geysers in Iceland. I witnessed a spectacular water fountain spouting 200c of boiling water thirty meters into the sky roughly every five minutes. I walked around the entire area of hot springs, bubbling pools, and bellows of steam. The land is dotted with mini geysers and Blesis, which are hot springs with water, the colour of turquoise. The excitement of each eruption was fabulous and having witnessed eight, I could have stayed all day. It was mesmerizing. I continued my drive through the stunning baron landscapes, taking extra care on the sheet of ice I was driving on for most of the journey. I suddenly realised that I had not seen any cars or people on the roads for several hours. True wilderness.
Fifteen minutes after leaving Geysir I arrived at Gullfoss, It was well worth standing in the hypothermia inducing winds to experience what is locally known as the 'Waterfall of the Gods.' Gullfoss is the largest waterfall in Europe and as I discovered about a lot of places in Iceland, it has a very special, breathtaking, humbling energy. You feel as though you are as close to nature as possible and fully appreciate the power and force the natural world embodies. The sound of crashing, free flowing water cannot be likened to anything else and has a truly hypnotic quality about it.
My final stop on this whirlwind Golden Circle road-trip brought me to Kerith - an extinct volcano that had collapsed and eventually became a lake. Whilst the lake was frozen over, the epic proportions where menacing and captivating. As I looked down into the cavern, I felt as though I could have found a young Superman, wrapped in his cape straight out of Krypton. Sadly I didn't, but nevertheless it was visually astounding. It is fantastic to be able to enjoy a mini road-trip where you can experience such varied landscapes over such a relatively short distance and short time and for this Iceland and Thingvellir is perfect.
Exit travelled to Reykjavik with award-winning Black Tomato. To book your bespoke Iceland or Reykjavik break, visit www.blacktomato.co.uk or call +44 (0) 20 7610 9008
